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Clues for Dating Vintage Clothing
By Karen Richards
With celebrities such as Barbara Streisand, Sarah Jessica Parker, Winona
Ryder, Sharon Stone, Drew Barrymore and Michael Richards flaunting
their trendy wardrobes vintage fashions have become very popular.
Whether you want to establish a collection of clothes from bygone eras
or you would just like a few unique pieces to add oomph to your
wardrobe, it is interesting to know the history of your piece.
How do you know if the 1930’s silk charmuese nightgown advertised on
Ebay is really from the 1930’s era? Now if you absolutely love the
colour or style well maybe the age does not matter. If you do not want
to pay a premium for something that is not as advertised, it is
important to learn a few pointers.
There are numerous ways to date garments. You can shop with confidence
when you know what clues to watch for.
For instance - How are the seams finished? Are they pinked, Frenched or
serged? Sergers and overlock machines have been around since the 1950’s,
but were not in homes until around 1964. Inspecting the seams of
custom-made items may not tell you for sure when it was made, but it can
let you know for sure when it wasn’t made.
Examination of the seams on store bought, mass produced clothing of the
1950’s, shows that most were pinked. Overcast seams, welted seams or
Frenched seams were usually only found on very expensive garments.
Overlock seams did start showing up in lingerie during the 1950’s. By
the early 1960’s all lingerie had overlocked seams, and the use of the
overlock stitch was beginning to appear in other garments made of fabric
that would frey easily.
A 1965 catalogue ad mentions that a garment featured overlocked seams,
while another ad boasts overlock seams in 1960’s lingerie. The term is
not a selling point in fashions of today as most attire has overlocked
or serged seams.
Another indication of age is the use of the zipper. Patented in 1893 the
first zipper was called a clasp locker. These zippers were not
practical. Although a zipper was developed in 1913 with interlocking
teeth, it was slow to catch on.
Zippers were first put in children’s clothing in the 1930’s and replaced
the button fly in men’s trousers around 1937. There were a few zippers
in women's clothing of the 1940's, but most garments still possessed
button fasteners, until the 1950’s when they finally became popular.
Catalogues from the mid 1960’s boast about the wonders of nylon zippers.
Nylon zippers were thought to be less bulky, easier to hide and more
comfortable than the old metal zippers.
Keep in mind that the presence or absence of a zipper and the type of
zipper provides clues to the age of the garment but that other factors
still need consideration. As zippers can be replaced, metal zippers are
not a guarantee that the item was manufactured before 1960. Similarly, a
vintage garment may have had a broken zipper replaced by a nylon one.
These are just a couple of points to consider when identifying vintage
clothing. Other factors to take into account are fabrics, styles and
labels.
Use a bit of logic with what you learn to decide if the item is
desirable.
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